Kia Ora Everyone! Welcome to my Auckland study abroad blog! I will be updating the site regularly so be sure to check it out every few days. I love hearing from all of my friends and family, so please don't hesitate to leave me a comment!

Tuesday, December 06, 2005

Headin' Home

So after traveling 11,000 miles and visiting five countries, I’ve learned a couple of things along the way: (1) ALWAYS have tissues and baby wipes on hand b/c many public bathrooms throughout Asia often don’t have either (or you have to pay for them like in Hanoi); (2) No matter how hard I try, I will never master the art of chopsticks.

But in all seriousness, I’ve had a fantastic time studying abroad in New Zealand and traveling across Asia; I have met some of the nicest, most interesting people along the way and could not have asked for a better experience. In many ways, my trip to Asia helped me shed the preconceived notions I had of some of the countries I visited, particularly in regards to China. I expected a rigid communist state but instead found a modern society trying to reshape its image to the rest of the world.

For me, the purpose of this trip was to prove to myself that if I can backpack throughout Asia, on my own, for three weeks and visit countries like China where I got by with “ni hao” and “xie xie ni” (meaning “hello” and “thank you”, respectively), then I can do anything on my own and that maybe, just maybe, the real world that awaits me after college is not so big and bad after all.

Who knows where I will be or what I will be doing once I graduate. What I do know is that this trip has helped me develop a profound appreciation for travel and I definitely plan on finding a job that pays me to do just that (I may take the Foreign Service exam in April). So, hopefully in a few months time you’ll be asking yourself again, “where in the world is Sam Abrams?”

Well folks, my trip stops here; it’s been a pleasure blogging for you. Thank you to everyone who has read/commented on my blog over the past few months; I have loved reading your comments. And for those of you who didn’t, don’t expect any souvenirs!

Sayonara!

Konishiwa from Tokyo!

I only spent a day and a half in Tokyo but quickly realized just how large the city is. I spent most of my time walking around the Harajuku and Asakusa areas, which have great stores and lots of cafes. I think Tokyo is great city – its clean, fun, and the people are SO warm and friendly. Since I was new to the city, I lost quite of bit of time just figuring out the extensive subway system; but, I definitely plan on coming back to Tokyo in the future to spend more time here.

Climbing the Bridge, Indiana Jones Style

For much of my hike across the Great Wall, I hung out with my new Dutch friend, Jerome (did I mention he’s 34 a single? :-D) Anyway, just before we reached our final leg of the hike, we reached a squeaky wooden bridge that I swear looked as though it was straight out of “Indian Jones and the Temple of Doom.” I was petrified that I’d fall through one of the shaky wooden planks and into the freezing cold lake below us. Thankfully, there was a skinny metal beam that ran the length of the bridge so I walked on that to maintain my balance. I definitely breathed a sign of relief onced I reached the end.

The Great Wall...More like The Great Hike

I think there is something encoded in my DNA that causes me to sign up for difficult hikes; the Great Wall was one of them. Perhaps I never studied pictures of it well enough before but there are some STEEP climbs and endless stairs that take you along the Wall. I did the hike from Jin Shan Ling to Simatai, the latter of which is one of the oldest sections of the Wall. As challenging as some parts were, the hike was definitely worth the views; here is a picture of a local who walked the first leg of the Wall with me. She must do it everyday because I swear she was sprinting up parts of it.

Hast Mine Eyes Deceive Me?

The Forbidden City was once the imperial palace of the Ming and Qing Dynasties. It has beautiful ancient Chinese architecture throughout but I suppose in an effort to jazz up this historic venue, Starbucks decided to open a store smack dab in the center of the square; I was appalled to say the least when I saw it. Yet surprisingly, Starbucks can't even detract from the stunning imperial palace.

Located directly across from the Forbidden City is Tiananmen Square, a large plaza that has been the sight of political activisim over the years. Perhaps the most infamous event that took place here were the protests of 1989. University students attempted to confront the then harsh and rigid Chinese government, demanding more open relations. The most infamous picture to come from that event was that of the "Unknown Rebel" who stood defiantly in front of a line of tanks trying to enter the protest area.

The Summer Palace

Whereas the Forbidden City was the primary residence for the Ming and Qing emperors, the Summer Palace was their imperial playground. The property sits on Kunming Lake and has an impressive 726 acres of land. The place was so large that I didn't even have time to see everything in the 3 hours I was there. Here are some pictures of the palace from the Lake.

And Mao Said...

I was shocked to observe how highly revered Mao Zedong still is in China. Hundreds of Chinese tourists pay homage to Mao everyday and when I stood in line for the Mausoleum, some people purchased yellow carnations at a nearby stand as an offering for the former chairman. Viewing Mao was an incredibly rushed process with officers scooting us along. Though I only saw him briefly, I am convinced that I saw the waxed version of Mao. According to my guidebook, after Mao died in 1974, his doctors made the rash decision to preserve his body. They pumped him so full of formaldehyde that his body swelled beyond recognition. So just as a backup, they created a wax version of the great Helsman. I noticed that his skin was so perfect looking and well preserved that it almost appeared fake. But I guess I will never know if I saw the real Mao.

For those who have a great love for Mao, they could purchase Mao memorabilia in the souvenir shop just outside of the viewing room. Among my personal favorites that I saw were a picture of Mao posed tranquilly by a lake (a picture which looks VERY photo shopped) and if you want to keep the former Helsman near and dear to your heart, you can purchase your very own gold locket with Mao’s face encrusted on the front. It’s surprising that he is still such a revered figure; a larger portrait of his hangs in Tiananmen Square. They seem to have forgotten that over 38 million people died under Mao’s leadership during his Great Leap Forward Movement that collectivized farms and forced people to generate mass amounts of agricultural and industrial output. In spite of all this and the thousands of others who died during the Cultural Revolution, Mao is still very beloved throughout China.

My Encounter with the Beijing Police

As I was about to join the line to view the stuffed body of former Chairman Mao, I was quickly halted by a Beijing cop dressed head-to-toe in an army-green coat. He pointed wildly to my shoulder bag, indicating that I couldn’t take it in the mausoleum with me. As he escorted me to the checkroom, he asked in his best English if I was an American and I confirmed. He was very curious as to why I was visiting China and was quite pleased find out that I was there to learn more about his country. After our brief conversation, he seized my hand and ran me across the street to the checkroom station, darting through crowds of people and traffic in the process (it was pretty funny that I (clearly a foreigner) was holding hands with a local cop and running across Tiananmen Square; we received many strange looks). Once we arrived, he made sure that I had my wallet and guidebook and that I didn’t take my camera with me. After I received my ticket (for my belongings), he once again grabbed my hand and ran me back to the center of Tiananmen Square to join the line for the mausoleum. I thanked him graciously for his efforts and as we said our goodbyes, he kindly demanded 5 Yuan for his services. Since he was so nice and caring (and because he was a cop and I wasn’t trying to go to jail), I handed over the Yuan and chuckled quietly to myself as he walked away. Ah, the Beijing police force – cool but crooked as hell.

CHINA - The New Face of China

Beijing is not at all what I imagined it to be (or studied about). There are no collectivized farms or people proudly displaying their red badges; rather it’s a thriving city with grand boulevards, glass and stainless steel buildings, and a consumerism culture that is alive and well (Beijing is also where the world's biggest Mickey D's is located). As I walked down Chongwenmenwai Dajie, a street known for its great shops and restaurants, I noticed people going about their business, chatting on their cell phones and shopping for the holidays. In spite of all this progress however, there is a very visible and imposing police/government structure in the city. Video cameras and police officers (lots of them) are always around you; I even had an encounter with an officer in Tiananmen Square…

Water Puppet Theatre

On my last night in Hanoi, I attended a water puppet show, the city’s most famous attraction. Water puppet shows originated in the Red River Delta during flood season. Farmers would use wooden puppets to perform stories of ancient Vietnamese folklore in the flooded rice patties. Now of course, they are performed in enclosed pools with the puppeteers standing waist-deep in water and directing puppets attached to horizontal poles. I know it all sounds a bit complicated but watch the video to get a better understanding for yourself. Double click on “Water Puppet Show” on the top right of this page.

Halong Bay

While in Vietnam, I took a side trip to Halong Bay, located just west of Hanoi. It included a seaside lunch and 5-hour boat ride throughout the bay, an area surrounded by beautiful granite and limestone rock formations. There are even floating markets where you can purchase fresh seafood or other goods. The trip also included a tour of the Royal Palace caves, which is full of neat, jagged rocks. Some of these rocks tell ancient stories of Vietnam’s historic origins.

I met two Swedish boys on my trip to Halong and they are doing something similar to me -- backpacking throughout Asia and Europe but for 5 months. They started in Russia and hoped abroad the Trans Siberian Railway for a 7-day showerless trip to Beijing. Now that sounds like fun! NOT!

Hao Lo Prison

Hao Lo Prison is located in the French District of Hanoi. Here, Senator John McCain was a POW during the Vietnam War (or the American War as the natives call it). It was used as a prison until 1993 when it was finally converted into a museum, most of which highlights the gross injustices inflicted on Vietnamese during French occupation from the 1850s – 1950s.

A Work of Art

Connecting Hoan Kiem Lake to an island pagoda is a bright red bridge with beautiful hand carved artwork located on the front entrance. One of my favorites was this lion pictured here.

VIETNAM - Hoan Kiem Lake

Much of the Hanoi city center rests along Hoan Kiem Lake in the Old District, a place where locals and foreigners alike gather to enjoy the scenery. For me, Hanoi was my favorite city because it was unlike any other that I have visited. Vietnam is a country that exists on the cusp of modernity and antiquity; a place where major hotels and new apartment complexes are becoming increasingly commonplace, yet at the same time one can still see women in conical hats (called non quai thou) carrying quang ganh (bamboo poles with baskets at either end) filled with fresh fruits/vegetables; even people transporting baskets and bananas across town on their bicycles are also staples in Vietnamese scenery. As charming as these sights are however, living on such a threshold sometimes implies a lack of precaution. For instance, here is a picture of a young boy clinging to an electric pole as he adjusts the wiring; mind you, he is still wearing bedroom slippers and is not dressed in any protective gear.

The World's Tallest Twin Towers

Malaysia’s Petronas Twin Towers are the tallest in the world, standing at 1483 feet, and are connected by a sky bridge on the 42nd floor. Here are some views of KL from the bridge.

The Spa Experience

Spa services are so cheap in Malaysia that even the natives get massages at least twice a month. I decided to do the same and indulge myself in my hotel’s 2 ½ hour full-body spa package. Allow me to recount my spa experience… First, I received a full-body massage/scrub that incorporated lemon and ginger extract. Next, I was placed in a sauna for 15 minutes to exfoliate the dead skin cells and then I was treated to a one hour full-body Balinese massage with essential oils. Then, I had a mask applied to my skin, which was later rinsed off in a luxurious bubble bath that offered views of the KL skyline. To top off my spa experience, my masseuse gave me a sweet cinnamon-ginger tea and a holistic herbal vitamin to cleanse my body. Oh, did I mention that my skin was as soft as a baby’s bum too? I now understand why the rich and famous go spaing regularly – it’s FABULOUS!!!

Time Traveling

It had been 15 years since I last visited Malaysia and in many ways, I expected things to have remained the same, but they didn’t. My brother and I attended Zai Karim Nursery School when we lived in Malaysia, but I soon learned that it was taken over by Sunbeam Preschool, pictured here. Even our old house was completely remodeled beyond recognition. They were certainly sad sights to see but I suppose it was to be expected.

KL Homies

Close friends of my aunt live in KL so I had the chance to hang out with Rahana, Manfred, and little Yasmine while I was in town. Rahana and her husband, Manfred, are incredibly kind and generous people; they showed me around the city, took me shopping, and cooked me a traditional Malay dinner, which was delicious! Spending time with them in KL was like having a home away from home.

MALAYSIA - Oh, the Shopping

Anyone who visits Kuala Lumpur will surely need to join an SA (shopoholics anonymous) meeting soon afterwards. KL (as it is more commonly called) is a shopper’s haven with literally thousands of malls, markets, and stores to choose from. Perhaps the most illustrious of them all is Suria KLCC, a six-story mega mall (connected to the Petronas Twin Towers) that houses such high-end stores as Valentino, Versace, and Hermes. Sadly, none of these brands are in my budget but I had to look no further than Jalan Petaling for more affordable designer-wear. There, I could find Burperry handbags, Brada backpacks, or Channel perfume at much more affordable prices (get it?).

Throughout Malaysia, as in many other countries worldwide, there is a huge influence of American culture. As I walked through Bukit Bintang (yet another mall), I heard the likes of Ashlee Simpson, Avril Lavigne, and Kanye West blasted over store loudspeakers. Not to be forgotten of course are the staple American restaurants such as McDonald’s, KFC, and even Chili’s, which have all become fixtures on many street corners. Even TV shows like “Lost” are big hits in Malaysia and one of my taxi drivers did not hesitate to profess his love for the TV drama. Nevertheless, Malays remain profoundly committed to their religion and appear to have successfully melded their (predominant Muslim) faith with a consumer culture.

Rock On

On our last night in Sydney, Jules and I headed to The Rocks, a charming historic district in Sydney located on the Harbour, to attend a free concert/festival going on that night. The live music by an Australian artist was awesome and the crafts being sold were beautiful. It was a really fun way to cap off our week down under.

Mr. Sandman

Adjacent to the Queen Victoria Building (a multi-story mall, or maze rather) was a Christmas display (Aussie style) that was built by local artists using sand. Here’s a look at their amazing work.

The South Beach of Sydney

Sydney’s Bondi Beach is the equivalent of Miami’s South Beach – it’s known for the hot, beautiful people who flock to its shores to bask in the sun. The beach is just 15 minutes from downtown and is a major attraction among tourists and locals alike (first picture).

Manly Beach is located in North Sydney and is famous for its beautiful shoreline. Plus the views of Sydney Harbour from the ferry to Manly are spectacular. Manly is a cute little town but is incredibly touristy; Julia and I only stayed for an hour.

In The House

As Julia and I approached Sydney Harbour, we couldn’t contain ourselves any longer! We started squealing and jumping up and down when we laid eyes on “The House” (as we affectionately called it). It’s kinda like the Mona Lisa – it looks much smaller up close but it is still beautiful nonetheless. Julia and I signed up for a tour of SOH (as the locals call it) to learn more about the building. It was designed by a Danish architect in the 1950s but because it was such an unusual structure, the Opera House took much longer and cost more money to build than anticipated. When it was finally completed in the mid-70s, SOH cost over $100 million!

Julia and I decided to take full advantage of our vacation so we caught a ballet performance in the House’s main drama theatre (it has 5 halls all together). The performance itself was weird but we didn’t care; the important thing was that we can now say we attended a show at the Sydney Opera House.

Greetings!

Konishiwa from Tokyo! I know you all have been suffering from an acute bought of blog withdrawal syndrome, but have no fear, the blog is here! Above you will find postings from my most recent travels (more Sydney pictures are coming soon). I hope you enjoy!